End of the Road

"What are you guys doing on a tour with all of us old folks?"

Jokingly, someone came up to me and asked me that right when we arrived at the orientation...  But he had a point -- everyone was considerably older.  We expected that to an extent (Central Europe, Auschwitz... not exactly vacation hot spots for people our age), but no one else on the tour was less than 40-50 years old.  The average age, around 60.  We weren't really sure how we'd be accepted, and whether the age difference would be an issue. 

In retrospect, we had a great time on the tour, and really enjoyed getting to know several people.  We learned a lot from them too: the old British couple, maybe the oldest people on the tour, always holding hands...  The way they always looked out for each other.  Also, no matter what age, man can some Aussies DRINK.  And, sitting with various people at meals, hearing their stories about how they met, their families, and their careers.  It was a valuable learning experience that we won't soon forget.  

Therefore, there were mixed emotions over the final days.  We were tired and ready to get some extended rest sans wake-up calls, but were really enjoying getting to know people and hanging out with many of them.   

On the second-to-last day, we made our way from Prague to Munich.  Unfortunately, we got to spend only one night in Munich.  We arrived in the late afternoon and got a brief tour, then decided to part ways with our group to explore the town a bit on our own. The weather was great again, the autumn colors were beautiful, and the air that day was super fresh and clean.  We walked around Marienplatz, the central city square, and took in the fun little meat and charcuterie shops and food stands.  Initially I was a bit bummed to find out that we missed Oktoberfest by a couple days, but it ended up working out for us (as you'd expect, there's an influx of tourists, but apparently the city becomes very overwhelmed and prices go up by a lot).  We were able to get a nice table outside before sunset to try a couple Bavarian wheat beers.  Overall, we got a great vibe from the people and city, and definitely want to go back someday. 

End of the Romantic Road...

On our way back to Frankfurt on the last day, we drove up the "Romantic Road" with stops in Nordlingen and Rothenburg, quaint and charming towns straight out of a fairy tale. 

After our last group dinner in Frankfurt that night, we kept the party going at the hotel bar downstairs.  It was great to finally hang out with Orsi and the tour's party crew (we had skipped the optional all-you-can-drink dinners to save money, but heard a lot of spirited morning-after stories).  We'll miss a lot of people from our tour group!

Prague

The highlight of Prague was our food and beer tour.  For those who don't know, the Czechs drink the most beer per capita among all European countries.  That's quite a reputation to uphold, and we got a good glimpse of how they do it. 

We started the drizzly day with a nice walking tour of the city, which included the Charles Bridge, Jewish Quarter and Old Town Square.  There were so many beautiful gothic buildings to take in…  

The Vltava River

St. Vitus Cathedral

Paris Street

We're still randomly recalling how our Prague tour guide, whose accent was very thick, told us about the Charrrrrrrrrles Brrrridge.

Love locks near the bridge.

The Ultimate Cinna-buns

The Gothic Church of Our Lady before Týn 

HAM!

The most intricate clock I've ever seen...  First installed in 1410, this Astronomical Clock was built to foretell the Second Coming of Jesus Christ.

It was a nice rainy afternoon!

Our hotel in Prague was particularly nice because it included access to a full-service gym with a jacuzzi and sauna, which is how we decided to spend our afternoon before the food and beer tour.  I was never a big fan of saunas – I generally prefer cold vs. hot, and saunas pretty much represented fiery hells on earth to me – but thanks to Alexandra's insistence, I have to admit that my opinion has changed.  Instantly, my muscle aches and joint pains from hauling around luggage and not getting enough sleep over the prior weeks went away, and I felt noticeably better over the next several days.  

So enough about sweating profusely...  After spending time getting healthier, it was time to get fatter!  We met our food and beer tour group at Wezciknsi Square, then hopped on the metro to a neighborhood a few stops away and pub-crawled our way back to the Old Town.   The tour was a lot of fun.  Our guide, a college student born and raised in Prague, was very knowledgeable about local watering holes.  In case you’re wondering, he says it’s normal for him and his friends to drink a couple beers by the end of lunch every day.  Wait, every day?  "Oh yeah, every day!"  

One of the Czech craft brews that I tried was a 'California IPA,' which was very nice – very fresh and hoppy.  Actually, we got pretty lucky.  It was harvest season for hops, so we got to try a couple different fresh-hop IPAs – no surprise, they were my favorites.  Everything was really good, including the food pairings (grilled pork skewers, pickled sausages, oil-marinated cheese, etc.).  We met some fun people too!

Budapest

I'll keep this short and sweet, and let the pictures do most of the talking: Budapest is such a great city. The architecture is jaw-droppingly beautiful, it's pretty affordable, and the food is delish.  

The first night that we got in, we joined our tour group for an optional excursion where we took a cruise down the Danube. It was STUNNING.

The Parliament building. Apparently this is the first time in several years it doesn't have any scaffolding - lucky us!  

The Parliament building. Apparently this is the first time in several years it doesn't have any scaffolding - lucky us!  

The next morning, we went on a tour of the city:

Chain Bridge, which connects the Buda and the Pest sides.

Chain Bridge, which connects the Buda and the Pest sides.

 Hősök tere, aka Heroes' Square, on the Pest side of the river.

 Hősök tere, aka Heroes' Square, on the Pest side of the river.

A close up of those bad boys.

A close up of those bad boys.

The Dohany Synagogue, the largest synagogue in Europe.

The Dohany Synagogue, the largest synagogue in Europe.

Buda Castle

Buda Castle

We also visited Matthias Church, located on Castle Hill, which was built in 1015 and where many of Hungary's kings were coronated. It is gorgeous inside and out: 

In the afternoon, we did some exploring of our own. Here's a random assortment of pics of our jaunt around the city:

The Budapest Eye. Michael convinced me to go on it despite my heebie jeebies.

The Budapest Eye. Michael convinced me to go on it despite my heebie jeebies.

The view from the top

The view from the top

The Great Market Hall, the largest and oldest indoor market in Budapest

The Great Market Hall, the largest and oldest indoor market in Budapest

Inside the market

Inside the market

Roasted chicken and traditional goulash - yum! And beer, duh.

Roasted chicken and traditional goulash - yum! And beer, duh.

We didn't know this before visiting, but apparently Hungary is well known for its amazing wines. We found this wine bar, Doblo, on TripAdvisor, and had a great time here. The owner was really friendly and took time to go through all of the different…

We didn't know this before visiting, but apparently Hungary is well known for its amazing wines. We found this wine bar, Doblo, on TripAdvisor, and had a great time here. The owner was really friendly and took time to go through all of the different wines with us, and made several suggestions - and they were all delicious.

So much wine, so little time...

So much wine, so little time...

Budapest, you are lovely, and I hope we will meet again someday!

Next up: Prague!

Vienna

Our time in Vienna was brief, but it was one of the most memorable parts of the tour because of our fun night with Bernhard and David, who I met at a summer school program in London ten years ago.  Two of the smartest and nicest guys I know!

We arrived in the late afternoon, in time for lunch and a brief tour of the city.

St. Stephen's Cathedral.  Definitely a 'Wow' moment when it popped out of nowhere as we approached it from a side street. 

A view inside.

The Altar

We stumbled upon a little mom-and-pop where locals were eating lunch...  Fresh, simply-prepared vegetable soup and salads.  So good.

Prinzen Eugene. (i.e. Princess Eugenia, i.e. Eugeeeeeeeeene.)

After the tour, we checked in to our hotel, and were surprised to find out that our tour director Orsi upgraded us to a honeymoon suite!  She was such a nice, thoughtful and knowledgeable tour director...  [Thanks again Orsi!  You're awesome!]

Bernhard suggested Palmenhaus for a drink, then venturing out for some food.  We had an early morning the next day ("bags at 7!"), so we thought we'd catch up a bit and be in bed by our customary 10:30 bedtime...  

On the way to Palmenhaus, we took a picture in front of the Mozart statue:

Mozart... solid name.

After a nice happy hour at Palmenhaus, the guys decided to venture north to give us more of a locals' experience.  For dinner we agreed on a beautifully lit courtyard with overhanging grapevines at a winery called Mayer.  Our night got amped up from there...  Absolutely amazing food.  Roasted pork loin with crackled skin, perfectly fried chicken, delicious cheeses and bread dips (including a decadent lard -- yeah, straight up lard).  Bottles of newly released white wines, a couple herby digestifs, some unfiltered premium-jungle-juice-esque wine, and of course, an old accordion player who stole some wine out of my glass and made me look away so he could blow kisses to Alexandra.  

After dinner, I'll never forget the moment when David knocked on the door at the bottom of the staircase then turned around and asked us, "you guys ready?"  We had no idea where we were.  It turned out to be a secret basement dorm bar with foosball and pool (David used to play in tournaments, but we tied!).  Afterwards, a dance club with neon lights and more "digestifs." It was a night to remember...  [Thanks again guys!]

Krakow

After the heaviness of Auschwitz, it was nice to have a free day to unwind a bit.  Our next stop was Krakow, Poland's cultural capital.  Having passed on the optional excursions, our only commitment for the day was an afternoon bike tour.  After another hefty breakfast, we made our way to the old town to explore a bit before our tour began.  The old town's medieval architecture is stunning (fortunately, Krakow survived WWII in pretty good shape).  Eventually we made our way to the market square, which is where much of the main gatherings and commerce have happened historically.  It was quite impressive, and very lively.  Aromas of grilled sausages and roasted vegetables filled the air, while two big keg-shaped kiosks sold beer.  Everyone was happy.

The Market Square

A street vendor's cool paintings.

A clock tower in Old Town -- I don't remember the name of it, and Googling "pointy copper clock tower in Krakow" was a fail.

A typical walkway in Old Town.

Freshly baked bread... Looked good, smelled great.

Roasted pork knuckles!

Not gonna let the WHO rain on this parade.

Great beer comes out of this thing.  I walked past it a couple times thinking it was only a decoration...  It's so much more.

This guy was really good at making huge bubbles.

The bike tour was great, covering about twelve kilometers.  We rode around the castle, along the water, and past Schindler's factory in the Jewish district (technically outside the ghetto walls).  As you can see, we got really lucky again with gorgeous weather.

A professional bike tourist.

In ancient times, this was the main entrance to the Old Town.  The left part, the main gate, is slightly off-center so that guards high above on the right side could see you and, if you were a bad guy, shoot arrows at you. 

In 1410, King of Poland Władysław Jagiełło led the joint armies of Poland and Lithuania to victory against the encroaching Teutonic Knights at the Battle of Grunwald.  Too bad he didn't live long enough to see this badass statue, built 500 years later to honor him in 1910.

Tsk tsk... he's old and she's super young. 

Wawel Castle

Wawel Castle

Legend has it that a dragon lived in a cave beneath the castle...  The King didn't like that, so he offered to give his daughter in marriage to the first knight who could defeat it (if I ever have a daughter, I hope this exact situation happens).  Many knights tried and failed.  Then one day, a shoemaker wanted a try, and the King, fed up with the knights, reluctantly agreed.  The shoemaker filled a lambskin with sulphur and mustard seed and set it outside the dragon's cave while it was sleeping...  When the dragon woke up, it wanted breakfast, saw the lamb and ate it...  The sulphur made the dragon really thirsty, so it went to the river and started drinking water, and couldn't stop...  It drank so much water, it exploded!  Now there's a statue of it with an eternal flame (maybe indigestion?).  

Some other favorite pics of mine, including a couple from the Jewish Quarter...

After the tour, we had a nice happy hour at a place serving a solid selection of IPAs and other local brews.  For dinner, we couldn't resist going back to the food stalls in the main square!  Along the way Alexandra got distracted by some Amber jewelry, one of Poland's specialties.

P.S. I won't go into detail, but somehow lemon drop shots then a 'Pub Krawl' also came into play that night...  Chicken soup and ginger tea for lunch the next day were pretty clutch.  

The roasted trout we had with our ginger tea and chicken soup in Slovakia the next day.

On the ride through Slovakia, we saw Dracula's castle in Transylvania, at which point our tour guide imitated in her thickest Hungarian-Transylvanian accent, "I vant to sak your blaaad...."